By J. Brock (SARTMA) and with commentary and photos by Johnny Hobson (JH)

Divers at Comfortless Cove are about to plunge into warm, clear water.

JH: Ascension is a place of great contrasts, all in a very small area. You can snorkel along in a turquoise sea amongst a myriad of tropical fish, walk half a mile into barren ash fields reminiscent of a lunar landscape, carry on up progressively through more and more lush vegetation before reaching the summit of Green Mountain at 2718 ft. where you will be knee deep in mud, often clouded in mist and in amongst almost 30 ft. high bamboos. It is very much an island of great contrasts.

Boatswain-bird Island as seen from Ascension's eastern side

I. FACILITIES FOR TOURISM ON ASCENSION

SARTMA: Seeing that people have differing tastes and needs when they are on holiday, what kinds of activities does Ascension have to offer holidaymakers?

JH: I think that the most important thing about tourist opportunities in Ascension is that there are many strings to the bow. You have Eco-Tourists, people who are coming here to look at Green Turtles in the most important turtle nesting site in the Atlantic Ocean, the bird population, which, again, is a very important habitat for several rare species of birds in the Atlantic. There are 42 volcanoes (dormant) on the island – there are lava tunnels and fumeroles – all for any visitor to explore and visit. Ascension has become one of the main dive sites for the Military. We have had visits from advanced divers, some of whom have a record of 2,000 or more dives in places like the Red Sea, Great Barrier Reef, Galapagos Islands, and have all rated Ascension abreast with all of the primary dive sites in the world. There is game fishing. If you can’t catch a fish in Ascension, you can’t anywhere else.

Ascension Island's Scouts look after the Green Turtle population just as teen-agers on tristan da Cunha look after their Albatross population.

Then there is the connection with people who used to live and work here as single people – with the BBC, C&W, Pan Am to mention a few - over the years and have bored their families silly with talk about Ascension over the years and have never been able to bring them here. Now they can and many want to return with their families and show them where they lived and worked many years ago. One other attraction is the 20 letterbox walks, which have been laid out on the island. There are mountain and beach walks. Also there are many of the facilities - four swimming pools, two relatively safe swimming beaches (In total, there are 32 sandy beaches), there is a golf course, tennis courts and then there are various clubs for people to use.

So, really there is a lot to explore!

SARTMA: It has been said that Ascension Island has a very safe environment for families. What facilities are available for families in particular? Will there be children for mine to play with?

JH: Ascension really is the hub of the South Atlantic whereby people and families from the Falklands, St. Helena all can pass through and spend time en-route to the other islands. And, it has been said that Ascension Island has a very safe environment for families. Georgetown and Two Boats are very much family oriented. That could change if families leave but we still have a school with about 100 children in it, there are associated play grounds. The are clubs that cater to family activities in that they have games rooms and family activity days planned around the clubs. But I think possibly the biggest feeling is that children can walk around the town safely as there is very little traffic concerns. Everybody looks out for each other on the island. From a holiday point of view there is a stress free environment. You step off the plane and get picked up from the airhead and get taken to your accommodation and everything is available for a relaxing holiday. You can visit and explore wherever you want to and people are very friendly and helpful.

SARTMA: You mentioned children, are there activities they can join with them?

JH: We have several youth organisations on the island – that’s the Scouts, the Guides, Beavers and Cubs. Those are very much the main organised activity for children on the island. For example, 100% of the children who are old enough are in Beavers right through Scouts are in those organisations. Any visiting children are always very welcome to join in. In fact, next year, we have an exchange visit of 30 Scouts from Northern Ireland who visited us back in 1997. They are staying with St. Helenian families on Ascension. Scouts from here have gone to Northern Ireland on several different occasions.

This view of Cricket Valley shows how green Ascension is at various locations.

II. HOW TO GET THERE AND FACILITIES FOR VISITING YACHTS AND SHIPS

SARTMA: How do most of the tourists arrive and leave Ascension? With whom do they book?

JH: By far the majority of the visitors arrive on the RAF Tri-star Those people from the UK who want to book a seat can do it through Curnow Shipping who hold the franchise for the bookings at the moment. That is to Ascension. From the Falklands you can book through (alphabetically) Falkland Islands Company Travel Bureau and International Tours and Travel. Falklanders in the UK can book through the Falkland Islands Government in their London Offices. At the moment, however, Curnow charges £88.00 per flight per seat agency fees.

Other people do arrive on the RMS St. Helena but mostly that is people who are coming from St. Helena to work and or visit here or to fly out to other destinations.

Ascension from the air looks very small but on the ground it is a land of many regions and even climates.

SARTMA: There are some who arrive by yacht. What are the fees for harbour dues?

JH: Not many people arrive by yacht because in the past people had traditionally been discouraged from it because we didn’t have any facilities. That’s changed and they are welcome to visit the island. I’m not sure that message has got out amongst the yachting fraternities. Many still wrongly believe it’s a forbidden island.

Harbour dues are £10.00 per yacht and then, along with every other visitor to the island, there is an £11.00 entry certificate. That would be the same for passengers on the tourist ships, people coming from the UK, St. Helena or wherever. Visitors pay £11.00 Entry Certificate to the island.

III. MOMENTOS OF AN EXTRORDINARY TRIP

SARTMA: Where can a visitor purchase souvenirs?

JH: The problem with Ascension with regards to souvenirs is that there are not that many people on Ascension that are making cottage industry souvenirs. What is made by people, some very fine clocks, tables and trays, that are made with in-laid wood, are usually taken by commission by other people on the island. There are other bits and pieces that can be purchased from shops, including "The Turtle Nest" that are opened on a part-time basis. They supply key fobs, hats and tee shirts. There is a gift shop at the American Base and the NAAFI shop up at Travellers Hill. They all have a selection of souvenirs.

SARTMA: Is there a central location where I can get all the tourist information that is needed?

JH: We have a Tourist Information Office in the lounge of the Georgetown Guest House. That supplies all of the available tourist information about Ascension, like who to speak to about fishing and diving and information about the walks.

Connected with the Tourist Information Centre and the Accommodation there is a website:

IV. MUSEUMS AND POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST

SARTMA: If I were interested in the history of Ascension Island, where would I find the Museum?

JH: Georgetown has an excellent museum and attached to that is an even better gallery that shows a photographic history over the past 100 years on Ascension. It’s been collected from many people’s albums and that goes way back to the beginning of the 20^th century. It also charts Ascension’s history from 1815 when the Royal Marines first arrived here.

There are several publications on the island that can be purchased at the museum or the guest house at the Tourist Information Centre. The best definitive work for the past many years has been John Packer’s work, "A Guide to Ascension Island." There’s a new book that’s just come out written by the Ashwoles, which is, "Natural History of Ascension Island and St. Helena."

SARTMA: What about the geological history of Ascension, where can I find that? When was the volcanic eruption on the Island?

JH: The volcanoes on the island are regarded as being dormant rather than extinct. Ascension Island is one of a chain of oceanic islands spread out along the Mid Atlantic Ridge. Tristan Da Cunha, a much older island, erupted last in 1961. Although Ascension last erupted around 4-600 years ago, it is geologically much younger than Tristan and it`s perhaps only a matter of time before it sees further volcanic activity.

SARTMA: Obviously one doesn’t sleep on top of Green Mountain so what kinds of accommodation can people rent for their stay here and, more importantly, how much does it cost?

JH: Available to rent there are six three bedroom bungalows. They tend to be hired well in advance but only for a longer term. The Guest House itself, which is the top end of the accommodation range, has single rooms and flats which are big enough for families to stay in. Currently the double apartments are rented out at £60.00 a night and the single rooms are at £40.00 a night. There is a VIP suite, which is a little self-contained flat at £70.00 a night. The guest house itself has self catering facilities with 2 self-catering kitchens for the guests to use and do their own cooking as opposed to using the galley in Georgetown which feeds the single staff. On offer at the galley is fairly straight forward St. Helenian food.

The cheaper end of our accommodation range is at Hayes House at £25.00 a night and at £35.00 a night. Hayes House also has self-catering facilities. With all our accommodation we are obviously willing to negotiate the cost of longer term stays on the island.

SARTMA: And what about transport to those areas of interest that are scattered about the island.

JH: We have a car hire facility with 10 less than two years old cars to hire and they are all family 5-door saloons and they currently are rented out at £20.00 per day. You can also rent golf clubs, tennis rackets, snorkelling equipment, and bicycles.

SARTMA: Ascension Island has a quality that screams at you to come back soon and often. Its peaceful atmosphere is a must when you think of a family holiday with little stress and where you can make your own entertainment. There’s much to see and do. Those contrasts that Johnny Hobson spoke about in the beginning of this article bare much exploration. The letterbox walks take you to all of the environments he mentioned. Some are relatively simple to find and walk yourself whilst for some of the other more challenging walks it is best to join up with some locals who often get together to take the occasional walk. This way, someone from the group may be able to point out areas of interest and explain about any wildlife that is seen.

Come and see Ascension, especially with your family, and take away a memory of sun, sea, sand and contrasts that you will never forget. For further enquiries, contact The Secretary, Accommodation Services – Tel 00 247 6246 Fax 00 247 6356